I’ve been to 14 Greek Islands and spent 3 summers in a row on Corfu but in 2024 I finally discovered how beautiful mainland Greece is. Inspired by my mum who is a huge fan of the Peloponnese, we spent a week exploring Mani, which is the most southern part of the Peloponnese peninsula and is known for its rugged untouched landscapes and unique stone towers.
We spent the first half of our holiday in Limeni, a secluded bay with jewel-like waters close to the charming capital of the Mani region, Areopoli. Then, for the second half of our holiday we stayed in Stoupa.
Found approximately 1 hour from Kalamata Airport, Stoupa is a relaxed coastal resort with a sweeping sandy beach and a number of reasonably-priced waterfront restaurants. It doesn’t quite have the same impact as picture-perfect Limeni, but it is a far more practical base for families visiting the Peloponnese.
We spent 5 blissfully lazy days staying at Amani Earthy Living, alternating our days between lounging poolside or visiting local beaches, and trying out different trendy restaurants along the harbour in Agios Nikolaos of an evening.
It turned out to one of our most relaxed and affordable family holidays in Greece. Here’s everything you need to know about it.
Where to stay in Stoupa: Amani Earthy Living Review
I’m so glad my Insta-stalking led me to uncover this beautiful stone villa in the hills above Stoupa and Agios Nikolaos.
Amani Earthy Living consists of two separate villas with private pools built in traditional Mani style. Rather conveniently for smaller families or couples, one of the villas is split into 2 apartments so you can rent just part of it.
We stayed in the ground floor sea view suite and, while technically we should have shared the pool and outdoor areas with guests in the first-floor apartment, for most of our stay that apartment was empty and we had the whole place to ourselves.
The ground floor suite consists of a 1-bedroom apartment with separate living and dining area, including a full kitchen with fridge/freezer and dishwasher. Our son slept on a fold out bed in the living room. There’s also a sofa bed so the apartment can accommodate up to 2 adults and 2 children.
For families of 5 or more: The maisonette upstairs has 2 bedrooms and sleeps up to 5 people. The villa next door has 3 bedrooms & sleeps up to 9 people. View all room types here.
The décor of the apartment felt fresh and considered with a calming neutral palate and lots of storage in the bedroom. But the main reason we loved Amani Living was because of what lay just outside our door.
The pool area is simply stunning. I loved not just the plush sun loungers but how many cosy seating areas had been set up around the patio in order to soak up the endless ocean views.
We also had a delicious freshly cooked breakfast delivered every morning. We simply put in an order via Whatsapp and at the appointed time a tray filled with Greek yoghurt, eggs, fresh juices and pastries would be laid on the table by the housekeeper.
A lady named Matina was our point of contact and she us sent a fantastic long list of restaurant and beach recommendations, as well as a weather warning when a freak storm wreaked havoc in August. (We actually lost power in the villa overnight which I think doesn’t happen often but we hope they leave some candles or torches for guests in case it does in future!)
You will need a car if you chose to stay here. There are a couple of restaurants and a small grocery store within 15 minutes walking distance in the village of Neochori but to be honest we chose to drive here too as the last part of the road to the villa is unlit at night.
The beaches, restaurants and supermarkets of Stoupa and Agios Nikolaos are both only 10 mins away by car. There was always plenty of free parking available.
Book Amani Earthy Living hereWe had a truly memorable stay at Amani Living Villas and for €300/night in August for the 3 of us I thought it was great value.
More hotels and villas in Stoupa we shortlisted:
Castor & Pollux
Calme Suites Mani
Tseralia Houses
Trochalo Villas
Petras Gi - Stone Houses
Maniatiko Village
Kolokotronis Hotel & Spa
What to do in and around Stoupa
Beaches
As mentioned we mostly spent our time in Stoupa either lazing by the pool or at the beach.
Our favourite place to go (thanks to a tip from my mum and a couple of well-informed Instagram followers) was to Enigma Cafe Bar Stoupa, which is found on a secluded, quiet corner of Stoupa Beach.
Not only do they have sun loungers for a great price (10 Euros for 2 beds and an umbrella) but they offer beach bar service and have free parking. It was the perfect place for us to set up camp each day and enjoy soaking in the calm, gentle waters.
Another popular beach nearby is Kalogria, which is popular with families because it is sandy and has calm waters, but it does get very busy and some of the tavernas charge a fortune for sunbeds. You can bring your own towels and go without though.
Gnospi is a beautiful, secret swimming spot in Agios Nikoloas.
If you prefer small, picturesque coves with a simple snack bar then Foneas Beach and Delfinia Beach on the road to Kardamili are great spots to know.
Caves of Diros
One of the most popular attractions in the region is the Diros Caves, one of the most stunning natural wonders in Greece, where you can enjoy a boat ride through a labyrinth of stalactites and stalagmites.
Dourakis’ Tower
If you continue driving further into the hills behind Amani Earthy Living you will come to the charming mountain village of Kastania, where you’ll find a traditional tower house known as Dourakis’ Tower.
You are welcome to go inside this careful reconstruction of a traditional Mani tower (free of charge) and we recommend exploring some of the many medieval churches dotted around the time-frozen village too.
Limeni
Tucked away in the southern Peloponnese, approx. 50 minute’s drive from Stoupa, are the jewel-like waters of Limeni. Surrounded by lush green mountains and the traditional stone buildings of the Mani region, this secluded bay has a certain magic.
Read also: Mini guide to Limeni
There is no beach here but there are staircases down to the water and a small area where you can leave your towels/belongings whilst swimming.
A handful of upmarket eateries & traditional seafood restaurants line the waterfront, some with sun loungers for hire if you want to spend a whole day here.
We chose to spend 2 nights in Limeni at the beautiful Aria Estate Suites & Spa. You can read more about that experience here.
Aeropoli
Close to Limeni is Areopoli, the atmospheric capital of the Mani region, where you’ll find pedestrianised cobbled streets and ancient Byzantine churches that look unchanged for hundreds of years.
It’s the perfect place to dine on a summer’s evening as the streets are lined with reasonably-priced tavernas, rooftop bars and cosy candle lit cafes.
Where to eat in Stoupa & Agios Nikoloas
Stoupa Restaurant – Upmarket eatery on Stoupa beachfront. Also has sunloungers available to hire.
Elli’s Tavern – Traditional Greek taverna with tables lining the harbour in the charming fishing village Agios Nikolaos.
Almyriki Tavern – Traditional taverna on the beach at Kalogria.
Thea Manis – Closest restaurant to Amani Earthy Living. Has a fantastic outdoor terrace with sunset views. Often has live Greek music.
Pefko Restaurant – Excellent value restaurant on a terrace overlooking Stoupa Beach. Offers children’s meals with free ice cream sundaes that reminded me of meals out in Greece when I was a kid.
Perasma – We highly recommend their delicious chicken souvlaki pittas for just Euro 3.50 – we went here for lunch a couple of times!
Medikon – Highly rated upscale restaurant on the seafront at Agios Nikolaos.
Luna Piccola – A brand-new, trendy Italian restaurant in Agios Nikolaos. We loved the pizzas.
Getting to Stoupa
BA, Jet2, Easyjet and RyanAir all offer direct flights to Kalamata Airport from the UK.
We flew from London Heathrow to Kalamata with BA.
We hired a car from Kalamata Airport which we pre-booked with Discover Cars. We took the highway from the airport to Limeni via Sparti which was super easy to drive.
The coastal road from Kalamata to Stoupa does have many twists and turns but it wasn’t too narrow or busy in our opinion. We found it much easier to drive around Mani than we did north-east Corfu.
You can also prebook local taxis for an airport transfer to Stoupa. Ask your accommodation for details.
You may also like:
What to do & where to stay in Limeni
Best places in Greece for families
Ikos Odisia Review: Our stay at the luxury all-inclusive Ikos Resort in Corfu
